Exploring Heidelberg, Germany

The Germans say that spring arrives first in Heidelberg, and that very well may be true. Visiting on a Saturday in February the city was still bundled against the cold, but had enough sun and blue skies to give one optimism. While passing through Germany on work travel I was fortunate to spend a solo day exploring some of the interesting corners in this university city of southwest Germany.

The Old Bridge of Heidelberg. Constructed in the 18th Century it remains a fixture of the landscape. Behind is Schloss Heidelberg on the hillside. Photo by Andrew Zapf

First and foremost, Heidelberg is a city for discussion and learning. Home to one of Europe’s oldest universities, Heidelberg University, and its reputation and ancient traditions seep into every corner of the city’s identity.

As a student-city, Heidelberg is rife with bicycles as a means of transportation. You can find them parked around the campus buildings, cafes, and shops, which is a clear indicator of lively intellectual life. Photo by Andrew Zapf
The Heidelberg Univeristy Prison originally was a place feared by students, but as the 19th century turned into the 20th century a stay in the Prison became rite of passage. The Prison was eventually closed in 1914 after students became a little too bold with violations and confrontations with university staff to earn a few nights in the Prison. Photo by Andrew Zapf
A carved doorframe in the University Prison. Photo by Andrew Zapf
Graffiti within the Heidelberg University Prison. There were only a few rooms, but the furniture, walls, and ceiling gave evidence of many visitors over the years. Photo by Andrew Zapf
Furniture carved on every surface during the long hours of boredom while in the University Prison. Photo by Andrew Zapf
More graffiti within the University Prison. Photo by Andrew Zapf
Bookstores in Heidelberg are deep and rich, reflecting the educational core of the city. Photo by Andrew Zapf

Schloss Heidelberg dominates the city from above. It once commanded the River Neckar and housed Germany royalty. Now it is largely a ruin, but can still excite the imagination. Within its walls are the giant wine casks, a Michelin-starred restaurant, the remains of Heidelberg Palace, and impressive views of the surrounding area.

The legend of the castle says that anyone who could bite through the ring on the Schloss Heidelbergs gate would gain control of the castle and right to rule. A witch tried to bite through the ring and could only crack it - failing in her attempt. Photo by Andrew Zapf
Das gross Fass, or The Great Tun, with a capacity of 55,345 gallons (222,726 liters) of wine. Wine brought in by local farmers, tithed to the rulers, probably blended into an intriguing (or awful) blend. Photo by Andrew Zapf
"Perkeo" the mascot next to The Great Tun. Named after the Schloss Heidelberg cellarmaster who is said to have responded to an offer for another glass of wine with "Perche, No?", in Italian, or "Why not?". Palace legend has it that he died after drinking a glass of water. Photo by Andrew Zapf

Around Heidelberg are restaurants and cafes to feed the student population, citizenry, and constant stream of tourists. A visitor can find modern chains alongside the oldest establishments in the city. For the coup de grâce of my day in Heidelberg I sought out a centuries-old haven of students, intellectuals, and travelers – Gasthof zum Roten Ochsen. In my imagination the walls still lean in to overhear the conversations of beer-soaked wisdom and wurst-fueled philosophy. The sturdy tables bore witness to Heidelberg’s 1960’s student activists, and supported the elbows innumerable notable and ordinary men and women.

A table with Zum Roten Ochen. Mark Twain, Otto von Bismarck and countless celebrities enjoyed meals in this establishment. Photo by Andrew Zapf
Decor within the Zum Roten Ochesen, the Red Ox. This face of Beethoven may have been overlooking generations of visitors for all I know. Photo by Andrew Zapf
More importantly, generations of students and authors sat at these tables arguing and debating long into the night. The carved tables reflect the long hours with which one could pass the time in The Red Ox, and the smooth edges are probably evidence of the many spilt beers during those hours. A personal hero of mine, Patrick Leigh Fermor, passed through and mentioned his visit in his book A Time of Gifts. Photo by Andrew Zapf

Although I only had a day to visit, I can certainly understand how others have spent a weeks, months, and lifetimes in the historic city of Heidelberg.

Views to the west with Schloss Heidelberg on the left, and the Old Bridge over the River Neckar on the right. Photo by Andrew Zapf

Andrew Zapf is a co-founder of Pushing Horizons.

Disclaimer: All views expressed are that of the author. As an REI Associate, Pushing Horizons earns from qualifying purchases.

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