Photo Essay, Soul

Photo Essay: Palio di Siena

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The great Palio di Siena would have run on 2 July 2020. With months of anticipation and preparation, a week of ceremony and tradition, the Palio is one of the oldest traditions in Italy. Unfortunately, due to COVID-19 the races in July and August have been cancelled this year.  One of our greatest fears at Pushing Horizons is that the rebalance of what is deemed essential and inessential in life will land heavily against traditions like the Palio. We would argue that traditions that stretch back centuries and tie communities together are the very definition of “essential activity” and the intangible, unquantifiable benefits sharpen what gives meaning to life. 

WIthout a Palio this year to attend, the team at Pushing Horizons put together a short photo essay to remind us of the passion and intensity of Siena, Italy in July that accompanies our website-launching article on the Palio di Siena . Enjoy!

Crests of all 17 contrade in Siena. Photo by Andrew Zapf
Selecting the horses for the Palio. Riders wearing the colors of Siena test the horses offered for the race. Only ten will get selected from a pool of over forty. Photo by Andrew Zapf
By random draw the horses selected for the Palio are allocated to the participating contrade. Photo by Andrew Zapf
The streets are alive with color as the contrade decorate their neighborhoods, engage in daily processions, and gather to celebrate the Palio. Photo by Andrew Zapf
The start of the Palio, and the prove, is marked by a heavy rope. The horses are unrestrained and may be pointed in the wrong direction when the race begins. Photo by Andrew Zapf
Prova. Testing the horses in the days prior to the Palio. Photo by Andrew Zapf
The days of the Prove. After horses have been randomly allocated to their contrada there are five trail races - the Prova General is takes place the evening before the Palio. Photo by Andrew Zapf
Piazza del Campo, the site of the Palio in Siena. This photo shows the number of people packed into the square to watch a Prova, or trial race. Unfortunately, some people within earshot did not understand what they were watching and thought they had witnessed the Palio. We waited hours to get a spot on the rail to take photos. Photo by Andrew Zapf
Piazza del Campo. This photo was taken from the top of Torre del Mangia. The orange dirt around the piazza marks the route of the Palio. It's worth nothing the corners, curves, and straight portions for they factor into the uncertainty of the race. Photo by Andrew Zapf
We found a place at the tables of the Contrada Capitana dell'Onda. The streets were bustling as the men, women, and children prepared the tables, hung decorations, and arranged the master seating chart. Photo by Andrew Zapf
Roland and Andy at the Prova Generale with the Contrada dell'Onda. The seating is given by order of precedence. We sat three seats from the end of the line and around the corner from the main stage. Still, it was a meal filled with singing and storytelling. Photo by un uomo della contrada
Light fixture above the streets of the Contrada Capitana dell'Onda illuminating the dinner and marking the contrada territory. Photo by Andrew Zapf
Horse running for the Contrada Capitana dell'Onda exiting the contrada's chapel after being blessed on race day. Photo by Andrew Zapf
The pre-Palio ceremony involved military costumes, cavalry charges, and elaborate flag waving. Photo by Andrew Zapf
Cavalry salute the youth of the contrade before reenacting a charge out of the Piazza del Campo. Photo by Andrew Zapf
The Palio banner pulled through the pre-race procession by a team of massive oxen. Photo by Andrew Zapf
Giovanni Atzeni saluting the members of Imperial Contrada della Giraffa before the Palio. Photo by Andrew Zapf
The passion of the Palio. Photo by Andrew Zapf
Military costumes. Part of the Palio procession. Photo by Andrew Zapf
The Palio. The race was tight for three laps and Giovanni Atzeni (wearing red and white) would take the lead in the last moments and win the Palio for Imperial Contrada della Giraffa. Photo by Andrew Zapf
The Palio. It's fast, intense, violent, and passionate. Photo by Andrew Zapf
Giovanni Atzeni, on the shoulders of the Contrada della Giraffa, holding his hands up in victory after the Palio, 2 July 2019. Photo by Andrew Zapf
The banner of Imperial Contrada della Giraffa stands alone after its victory in the Palio. Photo by Andrew Zapf

Andrew Zapf is a co-founder of Pushing Horizons.

Disclaimer: All views expressed are that of the author. As an REI Associate, Pushing Horizons earns from qualifying purchases.

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