The Beautiful Sultanate of Oman

Summer in Oman is unrelenting. The heat rips the air from your lungs and the humidity weighs on you like a wool blanket. It’s miserable. But as the earth’s northern hemisphere tilts away from the sun a magical thing happens. Around November the ground no longer radiates heat, rather it collects moisture during the night. Occasionally it rains in December. By January you’d almost forget it was the dead of winter. In these months are the treasures of Oman most accessible. 

2022 began with a flop. Mere days after celebrating the flipping calendar our home was struck by the Omicron coronavirus. During our quarantine we paced around our home, anxious, nervous, eagerly awaiting our release. The days of cool mornings and moderate days were slipping away like sand through a clenched fist. 

Below are the photos from three successive weekend adventures. First, we warmed up our hiking boots with a local hike over the hill behind Muttrah. The area is dotted with fortifications built to defend the area from the Portuguese in the 16th century. We gazed down into the city from above, explored the market by the harbor, and inspected the fortifications of the Muttrah Fort.

Trail markers in Oman are painted yellow, white, and red. We hiked the relatively short Trail C38a. Photo by Andrew Zapf
The family ascending from Riyam. Photo by Andrew Zapf
Trail markers painted on the rocks. Photo by Andrew Zapf
Crossing the mountains between Riyam and Muttrah. Photo by Andrew Zapf
Treasures of Muttrah Souq. Photo by Andrew Zapf
Muttrah Fort overlooking the Port Sultan Qaboos. Photo by Andrew Zapf

The next weekend we drove 140 kilometers to visit the famous Wadi Shab. After paying the boatman to cross to the trailhead we hiked underneath the protective shade of the wadi’s high canyon walls. Our reward was a refreshing swim at the pools before retracing our steps.

The trailhead at Wadi Shab is only accessible by boat. There is a ferryman to carry you across. While not as dramatic as crossing the River Styx, it still pumps up the imagination from the outset. Photo by Andrew Zapf
Skirting the edge of a small canyon wall in Wadi Shab. Photo by Andrew Zapf
Skirting the edge of a small canyon wall in Wadi Shab. Photo by Andrew Zapf
Wadi Shab's floor is strewn with boulders. Photo by Andrew Zapf
Aqueducts for the small farms at the entrance of Wadi Shab. Photo by Andrew Zapf
Crystal clear pools of water in Wadi Shab. Photo by Andrew Zapf

Finally, we went even further afield. East and then south until we reached the golden Wahiba Sands. 13 miles into the desert we reached our campsite. Sorry, glampsite. Prepared dinner, luxury tent, and viewing platform to set up our telescope. It was only one night in the desert, but we spent the quiet hours of darkness literally watching the world turn beneath the heavens.

Wahiba Sands. Photo by Andrew Zapf
Exploring Wahiba Sands. Photo by Andrew Zapf
Dinner with a view. Photo by Andrew Zapf
Our lonely tent on the Wahiba Sands. Photo by Andrew Zapf
Sunset in Wahiba Sands. Photo by Andrew Zapf
After the sun disappeared and the moon followed it below the horizon the wind rose and breathed life into our campfire. Photo by Andrew Zapf
At the top of the sand dunes. It seemed like the heavens were a little bit closer. Photo by Andrew Zapf

There’s more in Oman to see and do. In fact, these photos are being posted while we pack a bag for another weekend adventure. Tomorrow we head to the interior. Maybe we’ll find ancient markets, Arabian fortifications, or mountain splendor. Or maybe we’ll find all of that and more!

Andrew Zapf is a co-founder of Pushing Horizons.

Disclaimer: All views expressed are that of the author. As an REI Associate, Pushing Horizons earns from qualifying purchases.

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